Đế Raspberry Pi 5 - Vỏ Dành Cho Maker

This is a sled or case for the Raspberry Pi 5. This is only the bottom part, it is designed for makers so all the ports are easily available. as you can see, there are cutouts for the power and HDMI. The SD card can easily be accessed from the bottom. The reset switch is also easy to access.

There is NO top. It is intended for makers to access all the sockets and ports while keeping their desk and Raspberry Pi 5 clean and undamaged.

There is space under the board, so if you want to secure a HAT, then there is room. about 2.5mm. This does depend where you are in the space, as the screw standoffs are not vertical but have a chamfer.

Update

2024 Feb 02 - From feedback, I have made a small change to the sled. It is now 1mm taller than the original this allows more clearance for the official Heatsink and Fan. The original with very tight, possibly too tight. This new version has 0.5mm clearance underneath the board for the clips. I recommend connecting the fan connector first, then attaching the heatsink and fan, then finally attaching the whole computer onto the sled. @KarolZalezak_328751 Thank you, Karol, for the feedback and making this project better.

Printing

The file is 3mf, as I am unable to get Fusion 360 to export g-code. I wait hours and nothing downloads! This is only a model file. There is no slicing etc.

I used eSun Fire Engine Red PLA+, but any non-conductive filament will work fine.

• Nozzle width: 0.4mm
• Layer height: 0.2mm
• Infill density: 20%
• Infill pattern: cubic

Use your best temperatures for the filaments chosen. I have a sparkle textured bed, which gives a nice finish on the bottom (shown).

Building

It sounds a bit grandiose, but you need some screws to hold the Raspberry Pi 5 into the case. I used M2 screws 5mm long. Depending on your tolerances, you might be able to use M2.5.

The max depth of the hole is 5mm including the Pi board thickness, but anything from about 3.5mm to 5mm should be fine. The screws self-tap in, so there is no real work to do.

Customisation

The obvious one is to make the edge (power and HDMI) cutouts a little bigger, but for all the cables I tried, this size works well.

Put in mounting points for VESA to pop it onto the back of your monitor and get it off the desk.

If anyone wants the STEP file or Original Fusion 360 file, just ask and I will upload it and make it available.