Nâng cấp SSR cho Qidi Plus 4

Required materials: 

• 1x  tall heatsink

• 14x M3-5-4 (voron spec) heat inserts

• 1x Genuine 15A SSR

• 1x LDO 2 pin JST-Xh Splicer 

• 1x LDO 2 pin JST-Xh Splitter

• 3x male JST-XH 20cm wires (note that the wire colors are reverse from normal)

• 2x #6/M4 22awg spade terminals

• 1x 24v 4010 axial fan (can use stock mainboard fan)

• thermal paste

• 1x M4x6mm SHCS

• 1x M4 hex nut

• 1x M4 flat washer

• 2x M5 hex nuts

• 2x M5 flat washers

• 2x M5x10mm SHCS

• 6x M3x6mm SHCS

• 2x M3x8mm SHCS

• 4x M3x15mm SHCS

• 2x M3x18mm SHCS

• 2x M3 flat washers

• heat shrink

• A soldering iron, wire cutters/crimper, solder, helping hands, and heat gun

With thermal switch option:

• thermal switch

• 2x 2-slot Wago connectors

Press all inserts into the plate, junction box, and fan shroud. Press nuts into the junction box and mounting plate. Solder two male JST-Xh wires together and heatshrink the connection. Crimp two spade terminals to the third set of wires with opposite colored shrink to remind you of the reversed wiring, because getting the polarity wrong will damage the SSR. Mount the SSR to the heatsink. Mount the splicer and splitter in their respective slots. Mount the heatsink to the plate using the M5 screws and washers. Mount the fan shroud using the M3 screws and washers, and mount the fan to the fan shroud in the correct orientation to blow across the heatsink and with the wire oriented towards the upper right. 

Make sure the printer is off and unplugged. Remove the back panel and then ground yourself. Remove the SSR cover, and the stock SSR, making sure to keep the AC in wires separate from the AC heater wires. 

Take the two neutral AC wires, pass them through each of the holes in the junction box. Fix them firmly in place and contact with each other using the M4x screw and washer. Put the lid on the junction box and secure it in place with 2x M3x screws. Mount the junction box to the plate using 2x M3x screws. Attach the ground wire to the SSR heatsink CORRECT THIS. Attach the red heater AC wire to terminal 1 on the SSR.

OPTIONAL: cut the red AC in wire about X inches from the terminal ring. Strip both ends of the cut according to the markings on the Wagos. Twist the strands and insert each into a separate Wago connector. Trim the insulation and/or wire of the thermal switch according to the markings on the Wago and insert each end into the left over ports in the Wagos. Tuck the thermal switch into the heat sink so it is snug. Attach the red AC in wire to terminal 2. 

Attach the SSR cooling fan wire to the center of the splitter. Attach the SSR cooling fan connector to the center of the splitter. Attach the chamber heater fan connector to the right splitter slot. Attach the XST-Xh jumper to the left splitter slot and the upper right fan connector on the mainboard. Attach the SSR control wire (white and white/blue) to the splitter, and attach the spade terminal connector to the splitter as well. Follow the positive and negative wires as indicated on the board, and connect the spade connectors to the correct input terminals on the SSR. 

Attach the spade terminals to the correct input terminals on the SSR. Follow the positive and negative wires from the mainboard (marked on the board) to the splitter to the SSR to confirm.

Remember to use heat-resistant filaments that are not carbon fiber filled. PA6-GF formulas that do not require chamber heating are a good option if you are worried about the state of your OEM SSR. If you are not concerned, PPA-GF, PPS-GF, and PC-ABS-FR are all good options as well.

Build pictures and red AC wire cut length coming soon™.