Bộ kit VP-S cho Dart Zone Venom Pro

BLASTER OVERVIEW

The VP-S (or the "Venom Pro, Streamlined") kit for the Dart Zone Venom Pro is a kit that evens out the proportions of the blaster while also extending the battery compartment and allowing the use of Acro P2 mount pistol red dot sights. A top strap without the Acro P2 mounting dovetail is included for those who want a totally streamlined pistol. 

I know a common question will be “why the lack of any picatinny rails”? And my answer is that there are both really good kits for that already (XFoxGames, AlpacaBlasterCo, etc.) and that I wanted a more streamlined sci-fi pistol secondary. This kit is meant to make the Venom a smooth pistol that won't snag on gear if drawn from a holster while making the proportions more appealing. Thus, I decided to completely remove the top picatinny rail and only use a pistol red dot.

And yes, this is only compatible with red dots that use the same mounting solution/dovetail as the Aimpoint Acro P2. This is due to the width of the top strap; an RMR-footprint red dot mount does not fit and is too wide. You can get an Acro P2 clone from Aliexpress for $40 shipped, and there are also a few other red dots that utilize this mount. Of course, being Nerf, you can get away with just watching where your darts fly, but I love the boxy design of the Acro P2 when paired with the Venom Pro. 

TOOLS REQUIRED

You will basically only need a 3D printer and some super glue. All of these parts should be able to fit on an Ender 3, and I think will fit on smaller 180x180mm printers too. You will reuse 2 of the screws from the blaster to hold the shroud on, but that is all. Depending on how good your printer is, the tolerances on all the parts should be sufficient, and no sanding should be required. 

However, if your printer isn't dialed in, then sanding might be required to make some parts fit together. (A good way to avoid sanding is to either dial in your printer, or just… buy a better one.)

HARDWARE

The only hardware you will need is 8x 6x3mm magnets. These will get glued into the front shroud and the front insert, helping the front of the blaster not fly off when you swing it around. I might've gone overkill about how many magnets is required, but its better to be overkill in this scenario than sending the front of your blaster across the room under play.

ASSEMBLY

Assembly is simple. You will not have to totally disassemble the blaster to install these parts. These are some rough instructions:

1. Unscrew and remove the stock front end of the Venom Pro.
2. Unscrew enough screws so you can pry the top of the blaster apart enough so that you can remove the top picatinny rail.
3. Unloop the battery wiring from around the screw post inside the blaster. You will need this extra length to more easily connect batteries with the longer battery tray.
4. Slide in the T_op Strap_ in place of the top picatinny rail.
5. Slide the Muzzle Brake into the Front Insert. This should be a friction fit.
6. Slide the Shroud Bottom Insert into the Shroud, and glue the Shroud Top Insert to the shroud.
7. Glue all 8 magnets into their spots on both the S_hroud_ and the Front Insert. These prevent the Front Insert from flying off the blaster in use; make sure the polarity of the magnets is correct.
8. Slide the Shroud onto the front of the blaster. Reinstall all removed screws.
9. Slide the Front Insert into the Shroud. If your magnets are oriented correctly, this should be a good tight fit, and will sit all the way back in the blaster.
10. Congrats, you are now finished! Enjoy your streamlined Venom Pro!

3D PRINTING

All parts come pre-oriented for printing; yes, you will need supports for some of the parts. (especially the top strap) This part orientation leads to the best part quality and strength, so it is not advised to reorient the parts.

For good color matching to the rest of the blaster, I suggest printing the shroud top insert, shroud bottom insert, and top strap in a dark grey. The muzzle brake should be printed in orange for safety reasons. If you are proficient enough in filament-swapping mid-print, you can print the first portion of the front insert in dark grey, and then swap to another color partway through. See the video above for more about this.

I recommend printing everything with a minimum of 4 walls and 25% infill. All parts benefit being printed with lots of walls and high infill; I personally printed everything out with 6 walls and 50% grid infill. I suggest using a really fine layer height for the shroud, as this part has an angled section that mates with the blaster, and with a taller layer height you will have pronounced steps instead of a seamless angled face.

Parts that require supports:

• Top Strap (pretty much all of it is floating, but this is to 
• Shroud (only on the section that is parallel to the bed)

SUGGESTIONS, QUESTIONS, OR ISSUES? CONTACT ME!

I can be found on Reddit and Discord, but I am most active on Discord. I can be found on the /r/Nerf Discord server, but if you need, you can DM me. If you do make this blaster, I'd love to know!

My Discord username is: @brooklyn_tony198

My Reddit username is: u/BrooklynTony198

Please note that I will generally not be accepting friend requests for DMs; to DM me on Discord, please join the /r/Nerf Discord server first and DM me through there.

IF YOU WANT TO SELL HARDWARE KITS OR PRINTED COMPONENTS OF THIS BLASTER, PLEASE CONTACT ME FIRST.

NONE of my files are to be used or sold by Frontline Foam, by downloading my files, you agree that you are not Frontline Foam and/or related to Frontline Foam or Derrikk Sun.