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TYPHON - Modular Rainbow Blaster

Remix of Bộ Dev Kit Collet RedCowl (RedCowl Collet Dev Kit) By RedCowl

By MightyShrub

Downloads
49
Likes
68
Views
1,023

Files 34 75.1 MB

  • TYPN_RearPlate_R1.0_1767901537.stlSTL · 1.4 MB
  • TYPN_TPull_R1.0_1767901538.stlSTL · 34.1 KB
  • TYPN_TPullClip_R1.0_1767901540.stlSTL · 78 KB
  • TYPN_Catch_R1.0_1767901540.stlSTL · 15.3 KB

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Description

INTRO

Introducing Typhon, my first-ever blaster design project initially concepted in May 2022! It's an accessible, modular rainbow pistol blaster that come packed with features and options, plus plenty of room for more!!

FEATURES

  • Easy to print but super rigid, fits on small printers and uses 400-600 grams of filament!

  • Cheap, accessible hardware

  • "Rainbow Pistol"-style T-Pull springer

  • 70mm of draw. high power in a small package!

  • Semi-toolless spring swapping

  • Wide spring compatibility!

  • Modular front ends to blast whatever you can imagine! Currently supports Silly Shells, Little Rocket shells, single shot target shooting, and multi-shot RSCB clips! Swap configurations in minutes with just 4 screws!!

  • Designed for remixing with lots of mounting points, make it your own!!

HARDWARE

Base Hardware:

  • 20x M3 Screws, 20mm long

    • Round head preferred

    • Mounting the Fidlock plate requires 2x M3x25 screws

  • 15x M3 Nuts

  • 4" Slug-spec Polycarbonate Plunger Tube

    • 1-3/8" ID, 1-1/2" OD

    • Same tube as HYPR, SMILEY, SLAB, etc

  • Mainspring of choice

    • Compatible with K25, 788, K31, SF25-TC, Lynx X-springs, Retaliator, Longshot
  • 2x Springs

    • Standard pen spring size

    • For Catch and Trigger

  • 3x 123 O-Rings

    • 1-3/16" ID, 1-3/8" OD
  • 1x 117 O-Ring

    • 13/16" ID, 1" OD
  • Lubricant (applied to Plunger Tube and Catch)

  • Glue

    • Apply to PlungHead and PlungRod connection

    • Can be Super glue, Hot glue, Epoxy, Silicone glue, etc

Variants

SillyShell

  • 3x M3x20mm Screws

  • 1x M3 Nut

  • 1x small spring

    • Standard pen spring size
  • 1x 016 O-Ring

    • 5/8" ID, 3/4" OD

Little Rocket

  • 1x O-Ring

    • 16mm ID, 2.5mm Wall

    • For Little Rocket Lug

Wye

  • 3x 016 O-Ring

    • 5/8" ID, 3/4" OD

    • For Barrel and SwingBreech

  • Barrel material

    • 16mm or 5/8" OD

    • Should be a tight ID, less than 13mm

  • >2x O-Ring

    • 16mm ID, 2.5mm Wall

    • For Little Rocket lugs

  • 1mm elastic cord

    • For SwingBreech flap

    • Can be found in art stores as "beading elastic"

    • Thin rubber band can also work!

  • Super glue

    • Apply to O-Ring and SwingBreech flap connection

PRINT SETTINGS

  • Orient parts as indicated in the photo gallery.

  • All parts should print with at least 4 Walls and 8 Top/Bottom Layers. I recommend higher for optimal strength.

  • The Plunger and BodBars receive all the priming force, and should therefore be printed very strong. Maximum Walls, maximum Top/Bottom Layers, printed slow and hot to ensure bonding.

  • This blaster is reliant on the strength of continuous flat-printed parts. Therefore, I don't recommend using filament with additives, such as silk filaments, because they interfere with part strength.

ASSEMBLY TIPS

  • Print 2x of the BodBar part.

  • To get a proper air seal, the PlungRod and Plug head must be glued together.

  • Swapping between variants is super easy, just undo the four front screws, replace the front end, screw it in, and you're set!

  • The "Wye" front end is used for both the single shot and the RSCB variants. Just install the Wye, then attach either of the "Outie" SwingBreech parts!

  • When inserting the screws for the first time, use the "plastic tapping" technique - drive the screws in for two rotations, then back them out for half a rotation. This will allow the screw to cut threads into the plastic without cracking the parts. Do not overtighten screws, as this will strip the holes or even shear the screw heads.

  • Building the SwingBreech can be finicky. I like to install the thin elastic first, looping through the Gate. Then, I slide the Gate flat into the rear of the Breech, and rotate it upwards until it moves into position. Next, I work the O-Ring into the groove in the Gate and apply a very small amount of glue to keep it in place. Lastly, I tie the other end of the elastic loop to the outside of the Breech.

    • Make sure the elastic is tight enough to keep the breech closed, but not too tight.

    • It's helpful to use two thin screwdrivers as picking tools while installing the O-Ring.

  • The spring is super easy to swap! Just remove the two RearPlate screws and the TPull screw, then slide everything apart!

  • The TPull can be rotated either vertical or horizontal depending on your preference!

SHOUT-OUTS

A massive thank you to everyone who supported me along the way, it's been a loooong ride but I finally did it!! Thanks to, in no particular order, Banshee, cass, pixelcat, thunderwizzle, flaming_fox, _windX, FalseBrother, HackOnWheels, Flibby404, Ikaaris, Je, imlichenit, MattR, MeakerVI, RedCowl, The Out Of Darts team, TuskZ, goop, Bird!, CastDeath97, kittenshark134, Sillybutts, GDop26, Cerberus, Takedownviable, NetRunner, Muffinbat, Rotary20, my parents, my cats, and finally my ever-patient and amazing partner <3

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Print spec

Formats
stepstl
Model files
34
Total size
75.1 MB
Largest file
32.6 MB

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