Tiny Parts Tube - REMIX parametric for length

My first attempt at this was with M12 thread (built into Fusion360) and it wasn't till I printed it that I realised it's really small, hahahaha! Internal diameter is 8mm but still useful for REALLY small things! So I had another go and did it with M14 thread. The M14 version is 10mm internal diameter.

Due to designing my components with a lot of parametric variables, I couldn't easily combine M12 and M14 into one file, so I ended up with two separate files. They are both included in this upload group. I have also included ready-to-use STLs for both types, set at 20mm “TubeLength”. TubeLength is the length of the main body, and the base is 1.2mm thick, so your internal available storage height will be TubeLength-1.2mm as noted in the FX Parameters when you go in there to adjust it.

When I redesigned, I wanted the tube to have constant internal diameter so that small parts don't get trapped at the bottom, which would happen if the tube bows out internally, likewise I specced the lid to meet the main body when fully closed so that tiny bits don't get caught in the lid if it's been inverted during storage.

Sorry I didn't include a blank unthreaded section in the lid, that would have made it a little easier to put the lid on, but unless you're opening and closing the tube many times a day the extra second or two it takes to start the thread isn't too important. I'm new to all this so I won't make that mistake again :o)

PLA is fine for this, as is 0.2mm layer, infill pretty irrelevant due to thin walls, no support needed (print both parts with closed end on the print bed), you might want to add an adhesion brim if you're printing a really tall tube and are worried it could detach, but for up to at least 30mm lengths I wouldn't bother. I printed at full speed 60mm/s on my Neptune3 Pro.

You might need to open and close a few times to ease up the threads, I didn't need any lube but if your threads feel a bit “lumpy” then a smear of grease would help.