PANTHERv2 - Full Size Modular Arcade Stick

Welcome to PANTHERv2!  For the Mad Cat in us all!  I really like how this came out, and my future designs will probably have these hidden joining features too.

As always, I'm open to any/all suggestions – feel free to drop them in the comments!

RAF

= OnShape Documents =

• 0.2 - Current version

• CHAMv3 Panels - PANTHER uses these panels

Any provided OnShape links are to my working documents, are the most updated version of the project, and may differ from the files uploaded here.

= Future Changes =

• Will add the guitar strap ENDCAP -- if there is a interest.

• May add a center brace -- if I come up with something.

= Change Log =

• Null

= Introduction =

PANTHERv2.  This is an updated version of my MadCatz TE1 inspired enclosure.  The main changes are an alternative TES style endcap, slightly thicker bezel, and the hidden M6 bolts.  There are also some small changes to the endcaps to help alleviate the "hull line".  This updated version is still just as sturdy as the first!

PANEL COMPATIBILITY.  PANTHERv2 is compatible with all CHAMv3 panels.

• Please clickHERE for the CHAMv3 Button Panels Printables page!

= Printing Suggestions =

WARNING: The completed build takes ~1kg of filament! Ensure your printer & slicer are well-tuned before attempting this project!

• All PANTHER Parts:

  • 4 Walls / 20-30% Cubic Infill / No Supports

  • Tested in PLA and PETG

  • ENDCAPs may need to be oriented diagonally in your slicer.

  • The corners of each part may lift from the build plate – ensure strong adhesion!

  • The JOINT should be oriented upright

• BUTTON PANELS (located HERE):

  • 4 Walls / 20-30% Cubic Infill / No Supports

  • PLA preferred over PETG for rigidity (and prettier colors)

  • The exterior face of the panels should face the build plate.

= Bill of Materials =

WARNING: Do not use M6 bolts longer than 35mm! It will puncture the case!

Part

Quantity

Notes

M6x35mm Countersunk Bolts

4

For center JOINT.  I use THIS set from Amazon

M6x25mm Countersunk Bolts

4

For ENDCAPs.

M6 Nuts

8

Square preferred, but Hex also works

M4 Heat Set Inserts

24

Can use the 6x4x4 ones too

M4x16 Furniture Bolts

24

For top panels and joint

(Optional) M4x16 Countersunk Bolts

8

For bottom panels, but you can use furniture bolts

M3 Heat Set Inserts

6

for Neutrik and PCB mounts

M3x6 Bolts

6

See above

Arcade Stick PCB

1

RP2040 Advanced Breakout Board or Brook

20-Pin Brook Wiring Harness

1

Or hand-wire

Arcade Stick Buttons and/or Joystick

n/a

Sanwa JLF + OBSF-30 if unsure

Neutrik NAUSB

1

or similar D-Mount alternative

Soldering Iron

1

For installing HSIs

= Assembly Guide =

1. PRINT ALL PARTS
   - You will require x2 ENDCAPs, and x1 of each other part.
   

   

2. INSTALL BODY HEAT SET INSERTS (HSIs)
   - HSIs are installed via soldering iron – this requires a steady hand.  Install HSIs as straight as possible into the hole.
   - Recommend watching some YouTube videos on HSI installation if this is your first time.  I like to slowly insert until the final 1-2mm, then I use a flat metal object to push it flush with the hole and allow it to cool.
   
   - The body requires x16 M4 HSIs in total.
   - Each FRONT and BACK requires x4 M4 HSIs that align with the bolt holes in the upper and lower panels.

   

   - The JOINTs require x8 M4 HSIs in total.
   - Each JOINT requires x4 M4 HSIs that align the with the countersunk holes in the rails of the FRONT and BACK parts.  They help secure the JOINT to the body in addition to the M6 bolts.
   - DO NOT INSTALL HSIs INTO THE HEX HOLES OF THE JOINT!
   
   

3. INSTALL M3 HSIs
   - x2 M3 HSIs install into the Neutrik mount in the center of the 2 BACK pieces.
   - Due to the its location, it is not possible to use M3 nuts/bolts to secure the neutrik.
   
   - x4 M3 HSIs install into a PCB mount on the upper or lower panels.
   - There are several options—use the mount that works best for your layout.
   - Honestly, I don't install these.  I snip a bit of toothpick flush to the top of the mount and use a self-tapping screw.
   

4. ASSEMBLE BODY
   - Line up the two FRONT pieces, insert x2 M6 nuts into the slots, and align it with the hole.
   - Place the correct JOINT piece over it, and use x2 M6x35mm bolts to join the pieces together. 
   - Fasten 4 M4x16mm furniture bolts through the BODY into the JOINT.
   - Repeat with the BACK pieces.
   

   

5. JOIN BODY WITH ENDCAPS
   - Insert x2 M6 Nuts into the slot in the ENDCAP and align with the hole.
   - (optional) Place SHIM to increase the width of the case to counteract filament shrinkage.
   - Align one of the halves of the BODY and use an M6x25 bolt to join the pieces.
   - Repeat with the other side, then with the other ENDCAP.
   - Ensure everything is square, and all bolts are fully tightened.

   

6. INSTALL PANELS AND CONTROLLER HARDWARE
   - If you made it this far, then it's the home stretch!
   - Install your controller hardware and wire everything up.
   - Ensure all panel bolts are fully tightened and you're good to go!
   - NOTE: If you find the panels are fitting a bit too tight, loosen the screws for the end caps, pull the frame outward, and retighten the endcaps.

   

7. PLAY VIDEO GAMES
   

Happy Printing!  If you would like to support my work, please visit my Ko-fi!

RAF