CHAMELEON v3 - Tấm ốp Modular Arcade Stick

Please check back periodically, as I will be regularly adding more panels!

As always, I'm open to suggestions.  Feel free to drop requests in the comments!  And, if you would like to support my work, please visit my Ko-fi!  - RAF

= OnShape Document =

• CHAMv3 Panels - Please note that not all v2 panels were converted to v3, and some underwent minor dimensional changes in the process.

Any provided OnShape links are to my working documents, are the most updated version of the project, and may differ from the files uploaded here.

Notably, there are unreleased/unfinished panels in OnShape not found here on Printables.

= Future Changes =

• More Acrylic Art Panel Options
  • Accepting requests for any combinations I haven’t made that you intend to make!
• More button layouts
  • If anybody actively uses extra thumb buttons on their leverless layouts, I'd be interested to collaborate to test/design some new layouts.
• May add some pictures to the assembly guide

= Change Log =

• OCT 2025
  • Out of respect to JonyFraze and his 6GAWD layout, I've removed the "1+6+1" panels from the repo.  It will still be available via my OnShape document, but will no longer be included as a default layout, per his X post on the use of his 6GAWD layout.
  • Added CROSSCUT.vewlix_R and corresponding art panel files.
  • Added BOTTOM.open panels, an alternative to the normal panels for buttons that need more clearance in the center.
• SEP 2025
  • Added OPTIMAL11_R, my personal preference for an 11-button Capcom Cup legal layout.
  • Modified counterbore of the shaft hole in all JLF panels to accept mid-collar Korean levers with the use of the uploaded JLF mount spacer named “SPACER.mid-collar-klever”.  The art base panels were not modified, and may not be compatible.
  • Added art panel files for JLF+VEWLIX.
  • Added LEVERLESS.split panels.  Added KLEVER.full panel.
  • Added OLED panels and OLED bracket.  Added OLED section to introduction.
  • Changed UP button spacing on all 24mm WASD panels from 29mm to 30mm to accommodate Sanwa screw-ins.
  • Improved spacing for JLF mounting screws on all lever panels.
• AUG 2025
  • Fixed PCB mount depth on Sega2P_36.4_R and Sega2P_Leverless_L
  • Increased inner chamfer of all panels to 1mm to improve fit within the enclosure's bezel.  Recommend re-downloading all panels if you have the old ones.
  • Updated Art Template .pdf files to 11"x17".

= Introduction =

This is a collection of buttons panels for CHAMELEON v3 (CHAMv3).  

MORE ROBUST DESIGN.  Panels are now 6mm thick, use M4 furniture bolts instead of countersunk screws, and the screw holes have been widened to 5.5mm.  The result is a more rigid panel with a much better fit in the enclosure.  But also, the thicker design was necessary to allow the implementation of…

ART PANELS.  Finally.  CHAMv3 uses a 2mm acrylic sheet sandwiched with a 4mm 3d-printed base panel – snap-ins are supported!  Art will also be supported on the bottom panels, but will decrease the inner clearance of the case by 2mm, and will need rubber feet to go around the M4 bolt.  The files include feet meant to be printed in TPU.

I am personally using the 2mm thick impact modified acrylic from Ponoko.com.  The base panels as well as the .dxf to get the acrylic cut are provided here.

PDF templates of each layout will be provided.  It’s worth noting that the x/y dimensions of the art are roughly 16:9. So any high resolution 16:9 photo (like a desktop background) will work!

OLED PANELS.  As of my September updates, OLED panels are live!  My OLED mount was designed specifically for these ELEGOO OLED displays.  These new panels have two posts next to the mount which accept x2 M3 HSIs.  I made a bracket which bolts into the M3 HSIs and holes the OLED display in place.

BACKWARDS COMPATIBILITY.  These panels will fit the v2 enclosure, but are 1mm taller than the bezel.  This is of note because there are slight differences in dimensions and spacing of buttons holes between v2 and v3.  While remaking the panels in OnShape, I realized things I could improve, and they are reflected here.  Namely, changes were made to improve compatibility with Sanwa Screw-in clearance requirements and non-Sanwa Joysticks.

MISC NOTES.  The KEEB panels are designed to be used with the solderless keyswitch adapter PCB designed by TheTrain for AllFightSticks.

= Printing Suggestions =

• All Button Panels
  • 4 Walls / 30% Cubic Infill / No Supports
  • Designed for 22 x 22 x 25 cm build volume
  • PLA preferred over PETG for rigidity (and prettier color options)
  • The exterior face of the panels should face the build plate
     
• TPU Feet
  • 4 Walls / 100% Concentric Infill / No Supports
  • Meant for use with a bottom art panel, but will still work with the regular panels
  • Designed for TPU
  • Enabling Polyholes (in Orca Slicer) recommended, but not necessary

= Art Panel Instructions =

Please refer to the guide on the CHAMELEON v3 Printables page for enclosure assembly!

ORDERING THE ACRYLIC PANEL

1. Download the corresponding cutting file (.dxf) for the layout that you would like to use.
    
2. Upload the .dxf file to an acrylic laser-cutting service like Ponoko.com or similar, and choose a 2mm clear acrylic.
    
3. Ensure the dimensions are in mm and the panel size is correct (367.6 x 207.6 mm).  Ensure the holes are placed correctly and are actually being cut.  Ensure all DFM requirements are met.
    
4. Extra finishing options are optional. 
    
5. When you are confident that everything is correct, place the order.

PRINTING/CUTTING YOUR ART

1. As previously mentioned, the art panel size is 367.6 x 207.6 mm (14.47 x 8.17 in).  Size your art accordingly.  Recommend commissioning art from your local artist or on the /r/fightsticks Discord!
    
2. Work with your local printing service to ensure it is printed true to size or to err on the side of slightly larger.  Recommend thin cardstock or similar heavyweight paper.
    
3. Place the acrylic over the print and line it up appropriately.  Use a strip (or two) of painter's tape on each side to hold it in place.  When you are sure it is secure, use a pencil to trace the outline of the acrylic, button holes, and screw holes.
    
4. Carefully remove the tape and begin cutting the print.  Use scissors to cut the border.  You will likely need to come back and cut some more off later.
    
5. Use a single hole punch for the screw holes.
    
6. Use an X-Acto Knife (or similar) to cut the button holes.  This will require patience and a steady hand.  I found it much easier to first cut 3/4 of the hole, painter's tape the cut section from the back, and then finish the last 1/4.
    
7. Your holes do not need to be perfect, as the rims of most buttons and your joystick dustwasher obscure the rough edges.  Just work slowly and don't rip the paper!

FINAL ASSEMBLY

1. Place the corresponding 3d-printed base panels into the enclosure.
    
2. If you are using a joystick, install it now!
    
3. Place the art on top of the base panels.  Ensure the holes and borders line up properly.  If there are fit issues, remove the art and carefully cut off any excess.
    
4. Place the acrylic, align the art, and fasten the M4 bolts – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
    
5. Assembly and installation for the bottom art panel follows all of the previous steps, sans button holes.  Due to the use of furniture bolts, recommend using the provided TPU feet with the bolts or adhesive foam on the underside of the controller.
    
6. Install the rest of your controller hardware, wire everything up, and enjoy your new arcade stick!
    

Happy Printing!

RAF