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22h%22%3A3024%7D"/>\"\"Mounting the motorFlip the assembly upside down and install the motor, it secures with four (stock) screws and rubber bushings. Fully tighten but do not overtighten them.\"\"RFID boardsInstall the RFID boards. They are friction fit. Be careful when you slide them in, find the correct angle and they will slide all the way in.The connector (circled in red) should face this direction, it's to ensure the surface soldered parts clear the printed parts.\"\"\"\"Do the same for the other side as well (two RFID boards in total). It is facing the same way as the picture above.\"\"You can tell if you've inserted the RFID boards correctly if all the hex cutouts are covered with the board in the background.\"\"Front RollersOnce that is all done, remove the rubber sleeve from the passive side of the front rollers, meaning the side without the gear. Do this for all four front rollers.It's very easy. Just insert a thin pin between the rubber and the plastic casing and rotate the pin all around it, then it will pull off easily. I'm using a 1.5 mm hex tool, it takes less than 30 seconds to do one. Save the rubber sleeves in case you revert to stock later.\"\"\"\"\"\"Continuing with the front rollers, grab the front roller sleeves and install it by pushing it fully in. It's a good idea to hold the plastic casing so it doesn't slide off the steel shaft as it's just pressed on.You shouldn't need to use any glue but if they sit too loose you can use some silicone glue that's non-permanent.  \"\"\"\"Install the feedersSort the front feeder motors. The ones placed in the middle of the AMS have a shorter piece of PTFE so keep that in mind. If you accidently place them wrong you can just switch the tubing.\"\"Slide the PTFE tube through the hole in the middle of the section:\"\"When installing the feeder, I find it easier to install the front roller at the same time by tilting like below:Take notice of the small drive gear! It must face the correct direction.\"\"Once roller is in place, cross tighten the four small screws with a 1.5 mm hex tool.\"\"Once done, connect the PTFE tubes to the rear motor (internal filament hub)Proceed to install the other three front feeders and rollers, make sure they all move smoothly.\"\"AMS main boardAlmost done. Now we install the AMS main board. There are two tabs on each side it goes under and it is fastened with two small screws in the middle (use 1.5 mm hex tool). If the tabs don't reach the board, don't worry about it, it still sits firmly with the screws only.There are slight variations of the hardware revisions of the AMS boards but the screw and capacitor locations are the same.I find it useful to actually thread the small holes with the screws first, then remove the screws, place the board and finally install said screws.\"\"\"\"Be careful with the capacitors on the board, they are located on the other side of the board in the pic below, these are guided through the holes in the printed part (see the picture just above).Connecting the cablesConnect all the cables to the main board. Follow this section carefully and everything will be connected correctly. If you connect them wrong you can burn out the board so please don't skip this step. All cables are bidirectional.Connect the first feeder (leftmost) here:\"\"Connect the first (left) RFID board here:\"\"Connect the second feeder here:\"\"Connect the second (right) RFID board here:\"\"Connect the third feeder here:\"\"Connect the fourth feeder here:\"\"Guide the three cables from the motor / internal filament hub here if you've not already done it.\"\"Connect the wider (6-pin) cable coming from the actual motor of the internal filament hub here.\"\"Connect the thinnest (4-pin) cable from the internal filament hub here, is the speed measurement cable:\"\"Connect the hall sensor cable (5-pin) here:\"\"The ferrite core with the cables between the main board and the small rear PCB sits in the little slot in the middle front, just behind the main board. It's just friction fit so slide it in. If the cable is still attached to your AMS box, remove it now and proceed below.The cables are bidirectional (as are the rest) so it doesn't matter which in which way you plug them in.\"\"Connect the thicker square plug in the red circled location, it's the power plug for the board.Connect the slimmer cable in the green circled location, it's the bus cable from the main board to the rear power board.Once both are connected, slide in the ferrite core into the friction fit mount (circled in purple). You can pull on the cables a little to tighten it up but make sure to leave enough slack.\"\"If you want to double check once again, here are the schematics.Picture Source: Bambu Lab Wiki\"\"Time to install Kraken in the Bambu Lab AMS box. I find it easiest to stand it up at a 90-degree angle like pictured with the whole assembly moved as much forward as you can:\"\"Connect the power cable from Kraken here:\"\"And the bus cable here:\"\"Next, fold down the Kraken assembly into the AMS box, ensure the front lock with the tabs of the box.\"\"There is one tab on the front left and one of the front right of the box.\"\"\"\"Fasten it with the two main frame screws. 2.0 mm hex tool is used.\"\"\"\"Spool HoldersJust like Python, Kraken uses a geared spool holder system, rather than having the spools running on top of rubber and plastic rollers. This greatly increases reliability and you can use smaller spools and cardboard spools without worry.To install, just press in the printed bearing (or 608ZZ/RS bearing, if you have some) on each side of the spool holder with the "peg" facing outward.\"\"\"\"If you use the genuine 608 roller bearings, first press in the bearing then press in the plug, it snaps in place and secures on its own.\"\"\"\"Do the same for the bottom of the spool holder.<img class="editor-image-resize" src

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