re is no socket for it and it's not needed.
\nMotor Module
\nNext, mount the motor / AMS filaments hub motor in the Motor Module (rear-motor-print-1pc-1.02.3mf). Remove the four stock screws and install it in the module with four M3-12 mm socket head screws. You can keep or remove the white rubber bushings, it doesn't matter.
\nMake sure it's fully screwed in so the module sits flat on the table without rocking.
\nSpool Holders
\nUnlike the stock AMS where the spools run on top of rollers, Python uses spool holders that are compatible with all sorts of spools and it uses geared delivery for high torque. The spool holders are compatible with an inner diameter / hole diameter of the spools between 38 and 85 mm, which is probably 99% of all spools.
\nBut if you have even bigger inner diameter of your spools it's no worry, there are step design files available of these (check the remix tab) so you can make your own.
\nYou can also use the Adaptive Spool Holder if you like, it's fully compatible.
\nStart by screwing in the three outer M3 socket heads. The length isn't very important but around 25 mm is good.
\nHave them go through the spool gear by a few mm so it's easier to align with the threaded rod.
\nThen just screw it fully to the threaded rod.
\nThe next step is to attach the 608-ZZ bearings using the printed parts and M3 socket heads. The taller “wafer head” goes on the spool side (m3-wafer-head-gear-side-print-4pcs-1.02.3mf) and the shorter wafer head goes on top of threaded rod.
\nThe reason it's taller is it goes through the spool gear as well which is 6 mm thick.
\nInstall the 608-ZZ bearing on the other side as well.
\nNext, screw on the bottom of the spool holder. This part is important to keep the spools centered on the spool holder but it's also important so that when you install a spool and tighten it, you tighten (mostly) against the rod and not just the large spool gear (thus bending and deforming it).
\nIf you use small sample spools or other very narrow spools you can use a spool bottom (check optional print files) with a thicker bottom (5-15 mm) to align it in front of the feeder.
\nPictured below is the Adaptive Spool Holder setup which uses bottom part to offset the spool a fraction from the gear as well as a spring to center the spools.
\nFront Modules
\nSome of these pictures are from the standard Python build but mounting is identical.
\nIf your front modules look like this, you use the current version (1.02), you can tell as it has a cover below where the feeder installs. This version has a set feeder position, no need to or possibility to adjust anything.
\nInstall the feeders in the front modules, guide the cable in the middle, make sure the cable doesn't get caught when you tighten. You use the four small black stock screws from below.
\nThe feeder should align with the feeder cover of the front module.
\nNow looking at it from “behind”, make sure that the round screw “columns” of the feeder goes in the holes, circled in the blue below. It should sit fully flat like pictured.
\nFor version 1.01 the feeder modules are fastened with four screws from below (Picture from standard Python, identical feeding module mounting). Do not tighten yet.
\nFor version 1.00 the modules attach from the sides:
\nDo the same for all four front modules.
\nPress in the roller blocks (roller-block-print-8pcs-1.02.3mf) in the front feeders, do this for all four front modules.
\nInstall the front rollers and front roller holders. Use two M3-25 mm socket heads for each.
\nTake notice that the front roller holders are different (front-roller-holder-right-print-2pcs-1.02.3mf and front-roller-holder-left-print-2pcs-1.02.3mf) depening on which module you are working on, use the one that aligns with the shape on the front module corner.
\nSet a low tension of the front roller holder. A good rule of thumb is to have it aligned with the column below it. The roller should spin fairly easily.
\n28T and 29T Gears
\nThe purpose of the gears is to act as intermediate gears between the small rollers / drive gear and the large spool gear.
\nI recommend printing the gears in two parts. The outer part printed in TPU and the inner part in hard filament but if you don't have any TPU you can use solid 28T and 29T gears instead, see the optional printed parts folder.
\nFor these you use a 693-ZZ bearing and M3-16 mm socket head each.
\nStart with the 28T “rear” gear. This is the gear that has a missing tooth in the inner gear set, it's designed this way so you don't mix up the gear parts.
\nThe reason the rear gears are 28T and the front gears are 29T is to distribute any potential wear of the gears.
\nSlide over the printed TPU gear part over. Take notice of the inner gear direction, it can only fit one way.
\nNext, press in a 693-ZZ bearing fully to the bottom.
\nNext do the same for the 29T front gear.
\nNext attach the gears to the front module, the 29T front gear is closest to the feeder and the rear 28T gear is closest to the spool holder.
\nPlace the gear blocks and tighten the M3 socket heads at the same time. Hold the gear block steady with a finger as you screw in the socket heads.
\nScrew them fully in then back off half of a turn so they spin freely but do not wiggle.
\nInstall the TPU gear for the remaining six gears and press in the bearings for those as well:
\nInstall the drive gear holders and front and rear gears for the rest of the front modules:
\nFeeder and RFID cable extensions
\nAs Mega Python is so large, two feeder cables and both RFID cables must be extended, else they will not reach.
\nIf you want genuine Molex Picoblade, I recommend you get them from Mouser:
\nKeep in mind that with these extensions you must unpin and reverse the wire order else they will not function in the AMS.
\nTo unpin and reverse the wire order, lift the plastic tab holding the pin in the male connector and then pull the cable carefully straight out. Do the same for all the pins.
\nOnce you get to the last cable in the connector, keep track of it, this then of course should be placed in the first slot of the other side of the connector.
\nEnsure the “hook” of the pin is intact and sticking up from the pin, else you can just carefully bend it up with a fingernail.
\nNow insert the cables in reverse order then press down the plastic for each one.
\nThe hook of the connector should be up as pictured above.
\nPull on it to ensure it's firmly in place.
\nDo the same for all pins in the cable. One you are done, test the extension cable by plugging it into itself.
\nIt should now be a “straight” extension, you can see this by following each cable in the extension, it should not be twisted.
\nYou should now have a set of two feeder cable extensions and two RFID cable extensions as pictured:
\nRFID Boards
\nInstall the extensions in the RFID boards:
\nFront Modules
\nJoin the four front modules together by sliding the dovetails together.
\nIt's important that the small gears sit in the middle as two sections of Mega Python have reverse spool direction. It should look exactly like below:
\nStart with the leftmost module then continue to the right. The dovetails for the front modules are male on the right side and female on the left so join them as pictured:
\nAll four modules joined:
\nMiddle Modules
\nPlace the middle modules. They are identical so it doesn't matter in which order they are.
\nThe RFID boards are placed in the socket like this of middle module one and three. They are just press fit against the next module next to it.
\nPlace it exactly like this then carefully slide the modules together, the RFID cable and extension should sit in the slot and threaded through:
\nIt's a good idea to tighten the sections immediately so use four M3-16 mm socket heads to join them.
\nScrewing the parts together is quite simple but time consuming, just remember all socket heads go from the socket head cutout side in. They socket heads don't go fully in but are partially exposed in most areas.
\nFirst M3-16 mm goes here:
\nSecond:
\nThird:
\nFourth:
\nDo the exact same thing for module three and four.
\nYou should then have the rear modules like this, with the RFID boards in the middle:
\nJoin the middle modules together with four M3-16 mm screws:
\nFirst socket head here:
\nSecond:
\nThird:
\nFourth:
\nJoining Front and Middle Modules
\nNow with all four middle modules screwed together you can join them with the front modules.
\nDue to the fairly complex dovetail system you can't really easily join the modules together separately but they should go in all at once.
\nNext, install all socket heads. One M3-16 mm socket head should be used for each accessible screw hole from the socket head cutout in.
\nYou don't really need to use screws in all locations if you don't like, the structure is super sturdy as is but the ones on top of the spool holder columns must be secured with socket heads as there is no dovetail there (should already be in place if you followed the previous steps.
\nThe screw location hidden by the middle gears are optional as there is a big dovetail going all the way to the top there and it's very sturdy but if you like you can remove the rear gear and add one M3-16 mm screw there and then screw the gear back on.
\nContinue with the rest of the screw locations. Like I said, the number of screw holes are overkill and you can skip quite a few if you like.
\nThere is one screw location below the front 29T gear:
\nOne here, joining middle and front modules:
\nThen you can flip the whole Mega Python upside down and do the rest.
\nThere is one here between each front module:
\nAnd one here:
\nContinuing with the middle modules, there is one joining the middle and front modules here:
\nRear Modules
\nInstall the rear modules. The left and right rear modules are identical with the PCB and Motor modules place in the middle.
\nThe rear modules slide in and are then secured by socket heads.
\nBe careful with the female dovetails and slide in the correct angle as they are quite thin.
\nBut once tightened down they are strong so don't worry.
\nNext to it, place the PCB module:
\nThen the motor module:
\nAnd finally the other side rear module. All four in place:
\nStart screwing the rear modules to middle middles. Go from the side with the socket head cutout in. Use M3-16 mm socket heads here as well. In fact, that screw length are used in most spots.
\nI will not show details of exactly all spots but wherever there is socket head cutout a screw should be used:
\nSome screws are more easily screwed in place from above:
\nNearly there. Only the PCB holder and connecting cables left to do.
\nMain PCB Holder
\nThe PCB holder is placed in this direction but in the middle of the assembly. It is placed centered between module two and three.
\nThe PCB holder is screwed to the front modules with two screws and here is the bad news, it's quite difficult to screw it in place.
\nI recommend using a short hex key here, use M3-12 mm socket heads:
\nOptionally you can use 35 mm socket heads from the rear and M3 nuts on the other side, it will be easier.
\nConnect feeder and RFID cables
\nFor the leftmost module (front module one), connect a 7-pin extension cable.
\nDo the same for the feeder for the fourth module.
\nFor the first module, route the extension of the feeder cable through.
\nConnect the first feeder to the side of the PCB here:
\nRoute the first RFID extension cable trough from the board connect it here.
\nConnect the second feeder module here:
\nConnect the third feeder here:
\nConnect the second RFID cable here:
\nConnect the fourth feeder cable here to the side of the PCB:
\nConnecting the rest of the cables
\nBy now you should already have connected the four front feeder cables and the two RFID board cables. Let's do the rest.
\nStart with the motor cable. Guide the cable through the holes, this is the suggested route.
\nThen connect it here on the PCB, third plug from the right.
\nNext route the Hall sensor and Speed measurement cables from the internal AMS filament hub.
\nThe Speed measurement cable goes here (circled), it's the third plug from the left:
\nWhile the Hall sensor cable goes here (fourth plug from the left):
\nNext, guide the cables from the small rear PCB through.
\nConnect the Power cable here, fifth plug from the left:
\nAnd the Bus cable here, sixth plug from the left:
\nThat concludes the cable installation, everything is now plugged in correctly.
\nCut PTFE Tubes
\nThe stock PTFE tubes are too short so get a new set from Bambu Lab or from AliExpress.
\nI use a tube cutting tool but you can use a knife if you like.
\nGuide through the tube as per below then connect it to the first feeder. Pull on it to ensure it's locked in place.
\nIt's important that the tubes are not too long as this can cause more bend on them than needed. Not too short too of course.
\nA good rule of thumb is to stretch it then add 10 mm or so like the picture below then cut it.
\nFirst feeder PTFE tube done:
\nDo the same for the rest of the tubes. There are multiple ways to route your PTFE tubes,
\nThere is no right or wrong but this is the suggested routing:
\nInstalling the sides
\nSlide in the left hand sides. Both front and rear left side slides in from below.
\nThen use M3-16 mm socket heads for all screw locations with an indent.
\nThe right side front also slide in from below while the rear slides in from the top.
\nAgain, use M3-16 mm socket heads for all screw locations with an indent.
\nFinally, secure the right sides from inside out as well, again with M3-16 mm socket heads.
\nAdjust the Gear meshing / retraction
\nFor version 1.02 (current): Set feeder position, no need to or possibility to adjust anything.
\nFor version 1.00-1.01, read below.
\nA good rule of thumb is to have the feeder as close to the roller as possible without the roller grabbing the yellow gear while you rotate the roller by hand. It should not grab in either rotation. See the area circled below.
\nThe pictures below are from the standard Python but the feeder modules and adjustments are identical.
\nAdjust it so it just grabs it then back off a fraction:
\nFor version 1.01 the feeder modules are fastened with four screws from below.
\nFor version 1.00 the modules attach from the sides:
\nAll done!
\nMake sure there is not too much tension on the rollers / drive gear sleeves, they should spin with very low rolling resistance. If not, adjust the drive gear holders. Too much friction can cause issues when the AMS is retracting the spool.
\nMake sure you center and fully tighten the spool holders before printing. The spool holders do a pretty good job of auto centering the spools when tightening but it's a thing to keep in mind. You can also use the Adaptive Spool Holder that auto tightens the spools on the rods.
\nWhen loading the spools, ensure you align the spool holder on top of the front roller sleeve. Before you start a print, ensure the gears mesh and so it doesn't run outside it.
\nAlso when using small small spools, use a thicker spool holder bottom so it lines up with the middle of the feeder.
\nPictured here is a spool of Prusament 1 Kg and a cardboard spool of Polymaker Polyterra 3 Kg.
\nMega Python (rear) vs standard Python (front).
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