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rd but I have broken it down below:

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Main parts:

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I recommend using a wide brim for improved bed adhesion and Nano Polymer if you have some. The parts are tall and quite narrow. 

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Sleeve adapter:

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For this part, please use “Arachne Wall Generator” in the slicer else it will not work and you get gaps in the sleeve adapter!

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If you're having issues getting them installed and they are too tight, make sure all residual glue is removed. If they sit a bit too loose, use the 4.85 mm version instead. Also, there is an optional version that is 0.5 mm wider.

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Middle bar:

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This part prints on its side. There is text embossed on the side.

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Rear rollers:

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You need four of these, use 4 walls so it's solid.

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If you prefer, you can use the version without spool guides, it's marked as an optional print. 

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Front roller tool:

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Just print it.

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Use dry filament.

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Removing Supports

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Removing the supports for the left and right pieces is easy, they will easily break off. For the middle piece you must be careful. The front of that support piece is wrapped around the front to lock it in place so you need to bend it out a little at the edge and pull straight back at the same time. Go slow and it will release.

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Warranty

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Hydra PRO does not void your warranty but be careful, especially with the AMS main board, use an antistatic wrist band. Although the mod is completely reversible and you can't tell the parts have been installed in Hydra PRO (apart from the front rollers, see below), I take no responsibility and you're on your own. Be careful and take it slow, read this page twice before you start.

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However, modifying the front rollers (AMS Active Support Shaft Assembly) will likely void the warranty for those so I recommend getting four new rollers, they're not expensive:

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Version History

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1.01:

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1.00 - First Release

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Troubleshooting - Common User Issues

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“The lid won't close.”

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“The filament touches the lid.”

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“The front roller sleeves are too thin and fragile.”

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“One feeder does not engage / disengage the front roller.”

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"I can't get the sleeve adapter onto the front rollers."

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“I can't get the front rubber onto the sleeve adapters. ”

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“The RFID doesn't work anymore.”

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“There is too much friction on the rear rollers.”

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Assembly Instructions

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If you've used the normal Hydra AMS before you should be familiar, it's very similar.

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Remove the Bambu Lab AMS internals from the standard AMS, follow this guide, it's not difficult:

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https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-the-ams-main-frame

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Be sure to mark all cables and connectors before you remove them. I recommend marking each connector on the board and corresponding cable with a thin permanent marker pen as pictured below:

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Precaution: Always wear an antistatic wrist band when working with electronics. 

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The RFID boards are secured with hot glue so pull that off before removing them, the same goes for the ferrite core on the cables between the AMS main board and the small board in the rear of the AMS. A user suggested some IPA to resolve the glue but I have not tested this myself.

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Once that is done, you should have all the parts as pictured below. If you are unsure on how to remove the parts, just follow the assembly instructions in reverse. 

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Here are all the parts just before assembly: AMS box, all printed parts, all screws, rear rollers with bearings pressed in, modified front rollers, AMS main board, power and signal cable for AMS, RFID (2) boards, AMS rear motor (filaments hub), front feeders (4), tools and optional silica boxes.

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You need the following hex tools. The 1.5 and 2.0 mm are needed for the AMS parts and the 2.5 mm is needed for joining the three printed parts with the 20 mm cap head screws. 

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You can find these tools on AliExpress and I like to use them for my 3D printers but of course any hex tools will do.

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Slide the printed parts together and secure them with four M3 cap head (socket head) screws. I've used 20 mm ones myself.

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Flip it over and install the motor. It uses the same screws that were used with the stock AMS. 

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Here you use the 2.0 mm hex tool to install the four screws in each corner of the motor assembly (Filaments Hub). Press the flat PTFE release button (very bottom of this picture) and ensure it engages / disengages.

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For the bottom two screws (closest to the rear of the AMS), if you overtighten them they will peek out, it's no worry though as they will not obstruct the rear rollers as Hydra PRO use quite slim custom rollers.

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However, the screws are tightened on a silicone pillar and does not require full tension.

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Next, install the middle support bar. Guide the cables from the motor below the middle slot. Use two 14 mm M3 hex bolts (socket head), included in the kit I linked in the BOM to attach it, one from each side. 

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The main function of the bar is to ensure the PTFE tubes are guided straight into the rear motor and also to stabilize and ensure the three main Hydra PRO parts are aligned and seated properly. The support bar is optional but recommended. 

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Now we install the AMS main board. There are two tabs on each side it goes under and it is fastened with two small screws in the middle (use 1.5 mm hex tool).

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Be careful with the capacitors on the board, they are located on the other side of the board in the pic below, these are guided through the holes in the printed part (see the picture just above).

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Connect the cables from the motor to the main board. Please take notice of where they are connected, it's possible to damage the board by connecting these wrong! See the diagram below if you're unsure or haven't marked everything properly.

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Picture Source: Bambu Lab Wiki

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Install the RFID boards. The connector should face to the right, see the picture below. They are friction fit. Be careful when you slide them in, find the correct angle and they will slide all the way in. Then connect to the main board.

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Once done you should see the RFID boards cover most hex cutouts fully and Hydra should sit flat on the floor.

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Now do the front feeders next. If you've not sorted and marked your feeders (step one), the outside feeders use a little longer PTFE, otherwise they are identical.

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Insert the PTFE tube in the middle and the connector and cable in the right slot then push it all the way down to align with the screw holes. Secure the four small screws with the 1.5 mm hex tool.

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Align the screw holes of the feeder before tightening so don't just push down the feeder and hope for the best, there is an intentional tolerance built in so small tilt adjustments can be made if the printed parts has small defects for example.

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Tighten fully but do not overtighten. Connect it to the main board.

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Guide the PTFE tube through the cutouts in the middle bar for a perfect alignment into the motor.

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Do the same for the other three feeders and also connect the power and signal cable to the AMS Power Board (rear of the AMS casing). Push the ferrite core into the slot in the middle to hold it in place and connect the two cables to the board.

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The cables for the AMS Power Board should be free and not secured below the middle support bar with the other cables else they will be more difficult to install when installing Hydra PRO in the AMS casing.

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Now we need to modify the front rollers. Start by sticking in a thin pin between the rubber sleeve and the plastic casing then rotate and it will eventually pull straight out and off, it's glued on. I used my 1.27 mm hex tool to remove it and clean the grooves.

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Remove as much glue as you can by carefully scraping the grooves. 

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Nice and clean. 

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Next, slide the rubber sleeves onto the sleeve adapters. There is a raised edge of the sleeve adapter, this edge is facing the center of the front roller. As for the rubber sleeve, the side with a thicker edge is facing outwards.

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Now before you press on the sleeve adapters with the rubber sleeves already installed, put the roller in the front roller tool to ensure the plastic groove housing does not de-attach from the steel pin on which it is pressed *. The tool sits in between so that the plastic groove housing cannot move.

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You may need to use some glue between the plastic groove casing and sleeve adapter. I used some (non-permanent) silicone clue but super glue should work as well but you may not get them off if you need to. :)

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* If it does come off or if you notice one of your front rollers are already loose you can super glue it back in place by dripping some super glue between the steel shaft and plastic groove casing and letting it set.

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If you're having trouble getting the sleeve adapter installed, try cleaning the grooves another round and if you still can't, there is a slightly enlarged sleeve adapter in named optional-hydra-pro-feeder-sleeve-adapter-print-8pcs-4.90mm-1.00.3mf you can print instead. 

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It will take some force getting the sleeve on, it's normal.

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One front roller modified.

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Here you can see the sleeve adapter with the rubber sleeve outside. There is a gap between the sleeve adapter and the bearing. The weight of a full 1 Kg spool does not obstruct the friction of the bearing as the sleeve is just at the very edge so the sleeve and bearing does not touch even under load.

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Here is a short “Quick Guide” showing the procedure above:

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Time to install the modified front rollers. What I like to do is get one side of the roller then twist it in place as pictured. Give it a few spins and see that it rolls freely, if not you can adjust the front feeders a little but they are normally good to go.

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Next, time to do the rear rollers. These are custom and the stock AMS rollers will not fit. Instead, the bearings are pressed into the printed roller with an M3 socket head as the stationary shaft. The length of the socket head you use doesn't really matter, 20 mm is fine.

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For keeping the roll resistance at a minimum, the M3 socket heads slip out quite easily as they are only resting on the narrow and slippery bearing and not the printed roller at all. Don't worry about that though, once installed in Hydra PRO they will not slip off due to the slotted rear roller system.

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To install, simply press down the bearing and drop in the socket head.

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Time to install Hydra in the Bambu Lab AMS enclosure. Stand it on its side and connect the two cables.

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You can then fold it into the AMS box.

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Fasten it with the two main frame screws. 2.0 mm hex tool is used. 

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If you want to you can use the optional tool to align the AMS inside the box perfectly, it's usually not really needed though (optional-alignment-tool-1.00.3mf) but for some very large spools (204-205 mm diameter), perfect alignment is required to avoid rubbing against the lid.

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Install the rear rollers. Insert a M3 socket head on each side and place it in the next to rearmost slot (default position, read more further down).

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Make sure they spin freely. If they don't, try pressing in the bearings fully again. If you're still having issues, print another set of four but scaled a little lower on the Z only, this should very rarely be required but if you have M3 socket heads with slightly larger socket than specs this would be possible.

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Almost done! Next, install the optional Hydra AMS PTFE buttons and Silica Boxes. I use a longer piece of PTFE guide to help near empty spools rotating, the downside is it's more difficult swapping spools. You can use shorter if you like or no button at all. 

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Install the PTFE into the button before sliding it on. Press the feeder forward then install the button. 

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The latest version of the button does not come off if you knock it over.

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With the buttons installed, the lid closes but there is very little margin, this is normal.

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I recommend using the Hydra AMS buttons, there are other designs but most might not fit under the lid when using Hydra.

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The Silica Boxes are useful to keep the front of the AMS locked down as well as keeping the humidity low.

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All done! With the lid closed, Hydra PRO accepts pretty much all common 1 Kg spools with a width of up to 79 mm and a diameter up to 205 mm.

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Take a look at the huge amount of space of the Hydra PRO slots. Here with a Prusament PLA spool installed, big spools like Printed Solid Jessie and 3DJake ecoPLA easily fit.

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Prelude, Precaution and some more tips

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Make sure the front feeders are fully inserted and tightened. Also make sure the bearings on the front rollers are fully inserted over the shaft. If you use cardboard spools, add some electrical tape to the lip to get better grip. You can also use the Hydra AMS - Universal Spool Adapters for cardboard spools or if you have small sample spools.

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Which position for the rear rollers?

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This is the default position for the rear rollers, it's the second to rearmost. It works with probably 95% of all 1 Kg spools, for spools between 195 and 201 mm.

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Take notice that the rearmost position is only for very large diameter spools, if you use a smaller spool there it will rub the bottom.

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Next, this is the rearmost position. It's for spools between 201 and 205 mm diameter, with other words, extra large diameter spools.

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This is the third position. It's for slightly smaller than standard spools, between around 185 and 195 mm. These spools are pretty rare. Using these spools at the default or rearmost position would cause them to rub the bottom.

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The rest of the positions are for a variety of smaller spools.

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You can of course position each roller independently.

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Rear rollers in the default position.

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Hydra PRO test unit number two, here in Army Green with optional rear rollers without spool guides.

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Renders

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Some renders because why not.

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Now with RFID support:

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