{"slice":{"locale":"en","from":20000,"to":27283,"total_chars":27283,"html":"<p>r. All the 2.1 mm holes should be cleaned with a 2 mm drill bit and the 1.75 mm filament should pass easily through them. Do not use thicker drill bits to clean the holes! Larger holes lead to parasite movements of parts that increase vibrations and reduce the overall performance. Use only straight (not bent) pieces of 1.75mm unused filament as axes. The caps are attached to the filament with a touch of a hot knife or solderer. There should be approximately 0.5 mm distance between the cap and the moving parts for easy movement.</p>\n<p>Wings are attached to the wings-support with a U-shaped piece of filament. It should have 5 mm between the tips and the length of every U-side should be 9 mm. Bend the filament when it is slightly heated with a gas lighter so that not to break its structure - when it cools down it will save its new shape without cracks. The tips of the U-sides should be slightly and gradually sharpened with a knife or an engraver for approximately 4.5 mm length.</p>\n<p>If everything is made accurately, they can be attached to the corresponding holes of the wings without glue by pressing on them hard. There is not much load on the wings so glueless connection works fine here (but you can use glue if you sharpened them too much and they fall off). <em><strong>Update: I printed another set of wings with different settings and the holes were rather loose for the filament. In this case I just heated the filament a bit and pressed on in with fingers to make it elliptical, it holds well inside the holes. Personally I don't want to use glue here because it will be difficult to disassemble the glued model and reuse the wings if I decide to change anything later, but if you are sure that you will not change anything later, you can use glue without doing anything with the filament.</strong></em></p>\n<p>Connect everything except the lever and the circle and fix them with caps. Connect the lever and the most outer hole of the circle but do not fix the cap from the back side of the filament now. Attach the turbine.</p>\n<p>Now find the wind (or use a 35-40W fan instead) and test the system. If the duck doesn't want to fly at the required wind force, the possible reasons and solutions are:</p>\n<p>- poor quality of the printed bearings (most likely) / try other models of bearings that you can print well.</p>\n<p>- the duck is too fat and the blades are too small for it / print a low-weight duck or bigger blades).</p>\n<p>- 2.1 mm holes were not cleaned somewhere and make a lot of friction / clean the holes with a 2-mm drill bit.</p>\n<p>If nothing helps, you can reduce the duck lifting height by attaching the lever to another hole in the circle. The closer the hole to the center, the lower will be the lifting height and the easier it will be for the wind to raise the duck. Try all the holes and find the one that works at the desired wind force. There are holes for 34 mm, 30 mm, 26 mm and 22 mm lifting height. Of course the duck that raises higher will look more interesting, so start trying with 34 and end with 22. When you are satisfied with the performance, you can close the cap on the filament axis from the circle side, attach the arrow, balance it, and your whirligig is ready to use.</p>\n<p><strong>MOUNTING.</strong></p>\n<p>In the garden:</p>\n<p>Use something like 2.5 m x 32 mm polypropylene tube or a wooden stick. Attach the axis to the top side of the tube (use hot glue gun or print a custom adapter). Dig the bottom side of the tube into the ground somewhere in an open windy area at least 0.5 meters deep.</p>\n<p>On the roof top:</p>\n<p>The same as the for the garden version, but a short 0.5 m tube can be used. You will have to make a custom adapter to fix the tube on your roof.</p>\n<p><strong>PAINTING.</strong></p>\n<p>The duck was originally printed with white PETG. The yellow duck was painted with a yellow spray paint that was originally bought to paint gas pipes a few years ago :)  It paints PETG fine. The eyes were covered with a sticking tape before painting to keep them white. The beak and the eyes were painted with permanent markers. I don't have red paint and I'm not going to buy it just to paint a beak, so a red maker is better than nothing anyway,</p>\n<p><strong>FINAL WISHES.</strong></p>\n<p>Take your time to assemble your duck with love and attention and it will surely learn to fly someday :) Don't let it fly to your neighbor's garden by making a reliable mount!</p>\n<p>I know this model is not for everyone because it may disattract many people by the amount of the handwork required to make it work, but still if you are a real duckie fan and completed the assembly, I will be happy to see your whirligig photo in the “makes” section or post a link to a youtube video showing your model in action. </p>\n<p><strong>LICENSE.</strong></p>\n<p>This model is free and it is for non-commercial use only! Please note that the turbine used in this model is also licensed for non-commercial use by its respected author.</p>\n<p>You may use these model files to print this model for personal needs. You may print this model as a free gift to your friends. You may make and share remixes of improved separate parts of this model without sharing the complete set of model files (please provide a link to this page instead). You may not sell these model files or remixes based on these model files or the items printed using these model files.</p>\n<p>---</p>\n<p>UPDATES:</p>\n<ol>\n<li>I found that shifting the duck adapter slightly to the front of the duck's center of mass reduces tension and increases performance. Most likely this is because the wind and the rotating circle slightly pushes the duck to the front. So, my recommendation is to skip initial finding the center of mass as I showed in the video but assemble the device completely and find the best position of the duck adapter by rotating the turbine and shifting the duck adapter to different positions to find the place where the tension of the duck post is the weakest (the duck post should be comparatively loose inside the hole but not fall to the front or to the back side of the hole. Then generate a custom duck adapter and install it.</li>\n<li>Spray a little bit of Silicone Lubricant on all moving parts of the model, especially the bearings and the duck post. This gives an incredible increase in performance and the duck starts flying even with a weak wind!</li>\n<li>The model was tested in the temperature range from -30 to +40 degrees Celsius for almost a year, even under snow! There are no damages to the construction and it still works perfectly (printed with PETG). However, the mechanism may freeze when the temperature varies around 0 degrees Celsius, especially after rains or wet snow. This does not damage the construction but the duck will not fly until the temperature gets above 0 degrees. If you want to make it fly earlier, you will have to take it at home for an hour to let the ice melt, and then you can let it free to the nature again. It will fly fine and will not freeze again if the temperature keeps lower than -5 degrees. The snow is not a problem most of the time as it is cleaned by the wind, but wet snow may sometimes glue to the model and the duck will need your help. Due to this reason I move the duck from the house top to a 2 meters high post for the winter time to make the maintenance easier, as we often have temperatures around 0 degrees during Winter time.<br>\n</li>\n</ol>","has_more":false},"deferred":false}